Bethlehem

Last weekend I went to Bethlehem with some friends from school. There were many tourists there, as to be expected. But it was a gorgeous day, so nothing could really be bad.

We went into the Church of the Nativity and the line to see the spot where Jesus was born was three/four hours long. Well, if you know me, I don’t do lines. So I went up to the front of the chapel and went around a barricade. I thought I was being really sneaky, but then I realized the back of my scarf had caught the top of the  metal pole and it fell over with a loud crashing noise! I was going to be caught, so I had to think fast, two Arab men, who were there to rip tourists off, ran up to me yelling, you have to go back! you have to go back! I said, no, I am here to pray and continued forward, then one of the grabbed my arm, as if to pull me back in the opposite direction, and I yelled (in the church) DON’T TOUCH ME!!!!!!!! Continue reading

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Chanukkah Break

Yet again, it’s been way too long since my last post. I seem to start every post that way… maybe I’ll get better at this eventually.

Instead of giving the normal Christmas break that American schools give, Pardes, and Israel in general, has a winter break for the eight days of Chanukkah.  Chanukkah this year ran from last Wednesday night through today (Thursday), which means we go back to school on Sunday. Though many people take this time to travel outside of Israel – to Egypt or Jordan, usually – I ended up staying here.  I did, however, get plenty of travel in.

It is especially fun to spend Chanukkah in Israel, because here, the holiday is really about Chanukkah.  In the US, given the pervasiveness of Christmas, Chanukkah gets subsumed under the “Holiday Season” as a kind of Jewish equivalent to Christmas.  Here, there is no Christmas to speak of, and so the anticipation of the season is all focused on Chanukkah, and the special foods, the public displays and the types of discussions we have are all geared towards the Maccabean victory/miracle of the oil (take your pick), rather than the amalgamation of the US at this time.  Every night I could see all my neighbors lighting their candles in the windows, and hear others in my building singing the traditional songs.  Just like with Shabbat or the other holidays, there really is something to living in an observant Jewish city.

Stations of the Cross, Jerusalem

Since we’ve been spending so much time on Jewish topics, a friend and I decided to see a few of the Christian sites here over break.  For our first outing, we stayed here in Jerusalem, and walked the Via Dolorosa – the street which Jesus is said to have walked bearing the Cross.  All along the street, from where he was condemned by Pontius Pilate, to the site where he is traditionally believed to have been crucified and buried, there are numbers (often with associated churches or chapels) marking the stages of the procession.  It was fascinating to walk along that path, and learn some of the stories that I had never heard.  All along, we passed pilgrims, some of them singing or carrying full sized crosses themselves, reenacting the Passion.  Once we got into the Holy Sepulchre, we followed a Catholic processional around the building.  This wasn’t a mass, but some other sort of ritual rites being performed.  While I was watching the procession, I thought a lot about the similarities between this and the service of the Kohanim in the Temple.  The priests do all of the rituals and singing, while the faithful are allowed to stand behind them and watch.  It seemed so unfulfilling.  It gave me a new perspective on what happened in the Temple – the Priests do all of the work in the Temple, and the common men are allowed to watch from outside.  And as for the women- they might as well stay at home.  Though we pray for the restoration of the Temple everyday, I’m not quite sure this is something I really want…

Bethlehem

On Monday, we decided to go a little further afield, and check out life on the other side of the wall.  We took one of the Arab buses from the Damascus Gate to the border crossing, where we crossed over to the West Bank.  In some ways, it changed noticeably – all Hebrew vanished, replaced entirely by Arabic.  In other ways, it was the same – a mob of pushy taxi drivers still tried to take advantage of us as soon as we crossed over.  We made our way to the Church of the Nativity, an ancient Roman/Byzantine Basilica in the center of town.  After that, we wandered the town, got some lunch, and walked along the security wall, looking at all the Pro-Palestinian/anti-Israeli or anti-Jewish graffiti.   On our way back, we stopped off at the Tomb of Rachel, a building entirely surrounded by the wall, in order to keep it protected from attacks.

Nablus

On Wednesday, I went with a friend to Nablus to teach English to Palestinian women.  This post is already too long, and this deserves a full post, so more on that later.

Ein Kerem and the Jerusalem Forest

On our final day of break, we had planned to go to Nazareth, but we were too slow in the morning, and by the time we finished breakfast, it was too late to spend any time there.  So instead, we stayed in Jerusalem, and took a short hike through the Jerusalem forest to Ein Karem, a gorgeous and quaint town on a nearby hill.  We sat and had lunch, and then ambled around until we found a convent with a garden and view of the forest and hills.  Later, we stumbled upon the birthplace of John the Baptist, housed in an ancient and ornate church in the center of town.  So while we didn’t get to see Jesus’s hometown, we did get to see his precursor’s.  We then walked back through the forest with a fantastic view of a fiery Jerusalem sunset the whole way.  All in all, a very relaxing and pleasant day.

So that was my Chanukkah!

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[PEP Student] Dreams and Designation

Dear Friends,

I hope you are all doing well. Hard to believe that I’ve recently celebrated my second Thanksgiving (both in Israel!) and that Channukah is around the corner. Time is really flying by – but I guess that’s a good sign! This week, I’d like to dedicate these words of Torah to my Zaidy, Leo Wolynetz, on the occasion of his 84th birthday. May he continue to inspire me to actualize my dreams and model the management of those of others!

Last week, when I was reviewing the parsha, there were SO many things that came to mind and I felt were worth sharing. But I decided to choose a particular undertone of the parsha, which, in my humble opinion, is often unacknowledged within stories of Joseph and his brothers.

If I had to sum up the saga between Joseph and his family very briefly, I would say it is about DREAMS and DESIGNATION.

What do I mean?

Last week’s parsha, Vayeshev, begins the series of narratives about, as the musical calls it, “Jacob and Sons”. (I will try to bring in as many references to the musical “Joseph and the Technicolor Dreamcoat” as I can!) Immediately, the Torah tells us that Joseph speaks ill of his brothers and that he is singled out from the rest of them as he is loved by his father. Putting aside many of the explanations behind the descriptions given to Joseph and the significance of his ktonet hapasim, his special coat, it is clear that tension is rising among the siblings. Without pointing fingers as to who is at fault here — whether Jacob for explicitly favouring his son, Joseph for flaunting his elevated status and abilities, or the brothers for dismissing and discarding responsibility for Joseph — without a doubt there are conflicts of interest here. Each party has its own agenda and is seeking to actualize its vision for what should be. In this vein, the image of the brothers as shepherds and the sheep is instructive of the dynamic between the brothers; they are constantly struggling to designate who among them is the ‘sheep’ and who will lead as the ‘shepherd’ (Gen 37:12-13). Joseph believes that his dreams of surpassing his brothers will and must come to fruition; Jacob believes that Joseph should be exalted among his children; and the brothers claim “We’re great guys but no-one seems to notice!” (musical reference!)

But I think the conflict is best expressed in the text, as the brothers do not want Joseph to remain the ba’al chalomot, master of dreams. (Gen. 37:19)

In other words, this family is attempting to manage a tug-of-war of its members and their ambitions. Everyone wants to bring to life his/her desires and needs, and express those individually. However, this can only be done if there is mutual understanding and respect for one another, in addition to creating space for all and maybe knowing when to follow (like sheep) instead of spearhead.

It seems to me that the message of the parsha may resonate with our experiences as well. Many of our family members, friends and communities see the world differently than us. They see their abilities and roles as unique and wish to share them with others. But so do we! Now, if each of us feels as though s/he is competing with one another for resources, space and support, none of us will get very far. And so, I think the challenge of the parsha, as reflected in the story of Jacob’s family, is to figure out HOW to allocate roles and distribute power without quashing individual dreams.

And yet, sometimes I wonder: Is this narrative suggesting that some dreams are more real or important than others? After all, although Joseph is exiled from his family, he does eventually rule over his brothers, once they go down to Egypt! Or, is there a way to actualize multiple visions for the future, while some might undermine others?

I’d like to think that instead of (secretly or openly) plotting against one another, we would be better served if we were to share our visions for our relationships, professional lives, communities, and more largely, our visions for the State of Israel and the world. The key is to share our dreams so that we can designate time and place and appropriate roles for everyone, some more powerful than others.

This model especially speaks to me in light of some recent powerful experiences I’ve had in meeting with Palestinians in Bethlehem last week, accompanying a friend in the midst of an Orthodox conversion to meet with the Bet Din (rabbinical court) in Israel, and on a very personal level trying to navigate professional goals which might conflict with my colleagues’ hopes. The list goes on…

So the questions remain:

How do we share our dreams and delegate roles to enable them without suppressing the aspirations of others?
And when do we follow the lead of others?

I’m not sure the parsha gives us any guidance in answering this question….
I welcome your feedback!

Shavua tov,
Tamara

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[PEP Student] Dvar Torah: Guard Your Ears!

Dear Friends,

Today, I am inspired to write by two of my dear friends and beloved chevrutot (learning partners): Merissa Nathan Gerson and Dana Adler. Thank you Merissa and Dana!

Last week’s parsha, Vayishlach, is filled with a lot of difficult questions and interactions. To name a few: Yaakov wrestles with an angel and is consequently given a new name “Israel”; Yaakov meets his brother Esav after many years of hiding from Esav’s wrath for stealing the birthright; Yaakov’s only daughter, Dina, is raped by a Hittite (one of the Canaanite nations) man named Shechem; Shimon and Levi massacre Shechem and his city avenging Dina’s assault; Yaakov’s beloved wife Rachel dies in childbirth on the way back to Bethlehem. One of the threads that runs through the parsha is Yaakov’s uncertainty about his future; he cannot be sure that his family is safe, that he will settle (peacefully) in Canaan without external threats or internal familial feuds and that God will always be with him. Yaakov feels vulnerable and alone for much of his life, although he is almost always surrounded by other people, by divine “messengers” and sometimes by God Himself!

What are we to make of Yaakov’s anxiety? How can we relate to and learn from the obstacles he encounters?

In my evening Chasidut (Hasidism) class, our teacher Levi Cooper taught us about the concept of Shmirat HaOznayim (loosely translated as Guarding One’s Ears). Levi explained that in some Chasidic groups, particularly those who follow Rabbi Uri of Strelisk (1757-1825), there is an idea and practice of protecting one’s ears — not exposing one’s ears to speech or sound that could potentially cause spiritual damage. This practice of Guarding One’s Ears is especially difficult because unlike our eyes or mouths which we can shut, we cannot exactly block out what we hear.

In learning about this Chasidic teaching of Rabbi Uri of Strelisk (or Rav Uri, as we like to call him), my mind wandered to the difficult emotions and experiences that Yaakov carries with him, particularly hearing the news of his daughter, Dina’s rape, heeding his mother’s command to leave town since Esav discovered Yaakov’s usurping the birthright, listening to and wrestling with the divine messengers in the night and many more!

Continuing this Chasidic teaching, Levi explained to our class that Rav Uri recognized that we cannot always protect ourselves from hearing difficult words and harsh experiences. And so, when a person hears something “heavy, something that could be potentially damaging to one’s soul (I don’t really want to expand on that but try to think of that damage in its broadest sense), s/he should turn to God and pray. That person should pray that whatever s/he heard should be cleansed so that those sounds or words do not remain seared on his/her soul.

Sometimes we experience things in life which are incredibly painful, frightening and/or counter to the way we want to see the world. And we are all entitled and encouraged to share those stories with others whom we trust and who will love us regardless. And what about the listeners, those who bear witness to the painful experiences of others? We too are disturbed and upset by those stories.

And so, in an effort to maintain safe and appropriate lines of communication open between those of us who experience pain and those with whom we choose to share that pain, I think we can learn tremendously from Rav Uri, encouraging those of us who are wounded or upset by what we’ve heard to ask God to heal us and cleanse us so that we are not harmed spiritually by what we have heard. This does NOT mean that we ask God to erase what we have heard; we want to remain emotionally and intellectually sensitive to that pain and hardship. But I think Rav Uri intentionally chose the language of “damage on the soul” to teach us that we do NOT want those stories to scar us spiritually and cripple our ability to do good in the world and to find God in others and in the world.

Returning to the parsha, as we listened to the Torah reading on Shabbat and its recounting of the suffering and distress Yaakov experiences in his lifetime, and as we listen to the experiences and trauma of others….

  • May we be blessed to listen with resilience and empathy to their hardship and anguish.
  • May we be healed and cleansed of the potential spiritual damage of those sounds of anguish and hardship.
  • May we remain responsive emotionally and intellectually to the suffering of others.

May we listen well while we protect our ears!

Shavua tov,
Tamara

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this is a post about walls

Two weeks ago, my grandfather passed away.  He had been ill for a long time, and it was not a sudden death, but it has been nonetheless a difficult experience.  At his funeral, my uncle shared a story about my grandfather that has become something of a mantra for me in the last few weeks:

“My last conversation with him was two weeks ago.  I went to him and he gave me a kiss and hug and a brilliant smile.  And then he said to me, “Bob, I have to talk to you about the garbage.”  I said, “Dad, the garbage??”  And he said, “Yes, the garbage!”  Then he raised his hands, and got a rueful expression on his face, with a little smile.  “It is not our garbage, but it has fallen upon us to take care of it…” and he pointed to himself, “so I am going to send your mother out for the supplies, and later, we will take care of it.”

This was my father, Max Singer.  He knew there was garbage in the world.  It did not matter to him that it was someone else’s garbage.  He felt a responsibility anyway, and willingly took on the obligation to heal the world without complaint, without objection, with equanimity and grace.  He wanted to help without fanfare, and he did the right thing because it needed to be done.”

I want to share two stories about powerful experiences that I have had in the last week.  Both stories are moving, in very different ways.  Both stories involve experiences I shared with multiple other Pardes students, who I know have their own opinions and reactions about what happened.  Both stories touch on difficult political and religious issues.  And, most importantly, both of these stories involve walls.

By now, hopefully all of you have heard about what happened with the Women of the Wall at the Kotel last Wednesday (in case you haven’t, I wrote a blog post about it here).  The short version of the story is that a woman named Nofrat Frenkel was arrested for wearing a tallit and holding a sefer Torah, and is now under investigation, with criminal charges pending.  If convicted, she faces up to six months in prison and a 10,000 NIS fine, as well as serious repercussions to her future medical career.

The (slightly) longer version is this.  On Wednesday morning, I woke up early and got into a cab with several other Pardes students.  We arrived at the Kotel bright and early to join the Women of the Wall in their Rosh Chodesh prayers.  After twenty years of fighting for equality at the Kotel, the Women of the Wall have been granted the right to gather for one hour each month to pray in a group, as long as they adhere to the “customs” of the wall.  I arrived at the Wall with my friends expecting verbal abuse and potential physical abuse, however, we prayed our morning service completely under the radar of the people around us.

Because of this success, we decided to attempt to read Torah at the Wall, rather than to relocate to Robinson’s Arch, as is the usual Women of the Wall practice.  What seemed like a beautiful, successful morning quickly soured and was desecrated by shouting and threats from assorted officers, culminating in the arrest of Nofrat Frenkel, our shaliach tzibur (prayer leader), who also happened to be visibly wrapped in a tallit and holding a Torah when we were joined by a police officer.

There are several articles discussing these events, my own blog included, and each one of them talks about a different thing.  Some of them focus on the history, others focus on whether Nofrat was practicing her religion or making a politicalnofrat with the torah statement.  There are articles that talk about Robinson’s Arch as a perfect substitute for the Kotel, and articles that quote the Chief Rabbi of the Kotel as saying that “They behaved like [biblical] Korach and his assembly.”

What I struggle with is what comes next.  With December will come another Rosh Chodesh, and another meeting of the Women of the Wall.  What will we find, when we arrive at the Kotel on December 18th?  Will I be brave enough this time to wrap my tallit outside of my jacket, as opposed to under it, as I was instructed to do last Wednesday?  Will I, too, be brave enough to stand up in the face of angry, powerful men and respond to questions about my tallit by saying “I wear it because it’s a mitzvah.  Where is yours?”

My second story starts in a similar fashion – I woke up (considerably later, this time around), and met two of my friends on the corner of Derech Hevron and Ein Gedi, where we got on the 21 bus to Bethlehem.  We had been invited to spend Shabbat with another friend of mine, and I for one had leapt at the chance to visit.  It was my first trip to the West Bank, and therefore my first trip through a checkpoint, and my first chance to examine Israel’s second famous wall.

In my head and when I speak, the security barrier is always referred to as The Wall – capitalized and bolded for emphasis.  I remember learning about the fence as a teenager in a Young Judaea program, when construction had first begun in earnest, and spending two hours arguing about why it was being constructed and what we should call it.  The terminology seemed incredibly important to me at the time, and it still does – you’ll notice I’ve called it three different things in two sentences, and each title carries a different weight and connotation.

You can read and talk about life in the West Bank until you’re blue in the face, but you’ll never understand what it’s actually like until you travel there yourself, and even then you will only understand a fraction of what there is to understand.  The same goes for seeing the wall – it’s easy to sit in my comfortable Jerusalem apartment and argue about the benefits of a security barrier vs. the flaws of a security system that creates and maintains human rights violations every day, and an entirely different one to see the benefit of a physical wall that separates families from their land, cities from civilization, and human beings from control over their own lives.

The first thing I noticed about the wall was the graffiti – it’s difficult to notice anything else, because it’s so bountiful and beautiful and powerful.  Some of it is professional, some of it is casual, but all of it means something.  I took picturethis is not a game after picture; if I could capture the entire thing I would, and I hope that someone in the world is taking on the project of documenting the artwork.  This is the first picture I took, of a tic-tac-toe board and the words “this is not a game.”  The image brings to mind a lot of things – the futility of the struggle between Israelis and Palestinians, the recognition that the wall has a serious impact on the people on either side, and in one of the more petty parts of my brain, the movie War Games.

I saw another section of wall graffitied with the following words – “here is a wall at which to weep” – and it was at this point that the connection I had been making in my head between the wall inthis is a wall at which to weep Bethlehem and the Kotel that I visited last week snapped in to focus.

These are walls with multiple meanings.  On the one hand, they are about safety and protection – safeguarding a people, protecting a religion.  But on the other hand, they are about power – they are about showing the world who is in charge, and who holds the upper hand.  And it is that part – the usage of these walls as methods of control – that I simply cannot stand for.  How can I live in a country that does not support my right to pray the way that I choose, in what many consider the holiest part of the holiest city in the world?  And how can I love a country where the government is allowed to illegally seize land by building an impenetrable barrier between itself and some of its citizens?

I live here because this is where Jews are meant to live.  For all of my doubts about whether or not the Kotel is a place I want to pray, and for all of my frustrations with the actions of the Israeli government, I live here in this place because it is the land of my family and my people and my ancestors.  But I refuse to simply live here and accept the status quo.  This Israel, that protects men who verbally and physically abuse women who simply wish to pray in the holiest fashion they know, can never be my Israel.  This Israel, which builds walls to protect itself and in the process commits human rights violations, is not a country I am proud of.

It would be easy to simply leave.  To make a phone call and change my plane ticket and go back to a part of the world where things make relative amounts of sense, and the problems that need to be dealt with are problems that I feel I have at least a chance of solving.  But Israel means too much to me to do that.  And so, next Friday, I will travel to Hebron on a Breaking the Silence trip, to learn about the culture of silence surrounding military corruption in Israel.  And on December 18th, Rosh Chodesh Tevet, I will go back to the Kotel with the Women of the Wall, and I will pray wrapped in a tallit as I believe I am commanded to do.  It’s time.  I am cleaning up the garbage.

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