What is a prayer? [pt. 2 in a series]

(Part 1, Part 2, Part 3)

Pardes students daven mincha at Mitzpe Rimon.

Pardes students daven mincha at Mitzpe Rimon.
(*click* for larger photo)

At Pardes, it is easy to look at our faculty and see inhumanly perfect beings. This is an unfair assessment. Don’t tell Rabbi Eliezer I said this, but sometimes kavod rabbeinu (respect for our teachers) can go too far in making it impossible to see something of ourselves in our teachers. I worry that when a culture develops around making that gap pronounced, it becomes hard to see how I as a student can ever make it to the direction of my teachers.

This is why I was so glad to hear Rahel Berkovits’ contributions to our shiur clalli last week. (to remind yourself why we’re here, check back in with part 1. I’ll wait) As the self-described token person who has difficulties with t’fillah, Rahel (like me!) is envious of Meir, and those who know how to daven. Because when she tries, and she does try, she isn’t able to connect.

rberIt’s emotionally upsetting because I feel like I should be able to. But I can’t. I’m not good at it. I think that growing up female in an Orthodox community negatively effected me. Unlike Meir, I had no junior congregation, no opportunities to be the leader and get involved and feel connected. I know less about parts of t’fillah because Continue reading

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Community Davening at Pardes

A high-five across the mechitza when the tenth woman walks in.

Women’s liberation and Orthodox Judaism together, to some of my friends, sound like an oxymoron. Some argue that a legal system that doesn’t count women for thrice-daily prayer is inherently unequal. Others argue that to compromise an incredibly sustainable tradition that has weathered three thousand years for the sake of the trends of the last fifty years wounds the integrity and future of Judaism. How do we balance amidst this tension?

A high-five when the tenth woman walks in – really, whan any woman walks in – is a scene I have never seen in a traditional Orthodox minyan. I was walking by a synagogue just the other week and was asked to join a minyan for kaddish. That’s because I am a man, so I count. But the room holding its breath, waiting for one more woman – I had never seen that happen before in Orthodox space. I am proud that we have been able to create just such a space at Pardes where it does.

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Week 34: Yom HaZikaron/Yom HaAtzma’ut

(X-posted from my home blog, Yinzer in Yerushalayim)

Since the end of Pesach, the whole city has been snowing Israeli flags. Every morning, more and more of them turned up, sticking out of car windows, strewn across balconies, suspended from buildings and streetlights, pocketing rearview mirrors—flags everywhere a flag could fit, all in preparation for the “Israeli High Holidays,” Yom HaShoa last week, and now, the main events, Yom HaZikaron and Yom HaAtzma’ut. Everyone says there’s nothing in the world like the emotional roller coaster of Yom HaZikaron, Memorial Day, and Yom HaAtzma’ut, Independence Day, nowhere else does an entire country go from such a deep depression to such a euphoric high in one day. There’s just nothing like it, they say, you just have to experience it.

So Tuesday night, I met group of friends to join several thousand others for a government Yom HaZikaron commemoration ceremony at the Kotel. Just as it began, the first siren went off. Like on Yom HaShoa, during the siren, everyone in the country stops whatever they are doing, stops, stands and remembers. Unlike on Yom HaShoa, Yom HaZikaron has two sirens: one in the middle of the day to interrupt people during their routines, and this one, at night, while most of the country is already stopped and remembering at a local ceremony. After the siren went off, someone barked orders to the Army, Navy, and Air-Force present to stand at attention and salute, then someone lit the huge Yizkor candle underneath the flagpole erected special for the occasion. Then new orders were barked and everyone stood at ease. Speakers got up one after the other: President Shimon Peres, Defense Minister Ehud Barak, Chief IDF Rabbi, Brig. Gen. Rafi Peretz and probably other people, all giving Hebrew speeches I couldn’t understand a word of. Not that was I trying to. Instead, Continue reading

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Week 25: Topsy-Turvy

(X-posted from my home blog, Yinzer in Yerushalayim)

There is a Jewish saying that when the month of Adar enters, joy increases, and another that when Adar comes, the world stands on its head. Officially, Rosh Chodesh Adar was Thursday, but the preceding week gave it a running start.

 

The first day of Women and Mitzvot class, our teacher, Rahel Berkovits, told us how when her daughter was born, she thought she would never see her read from the Torah on her Bat-Mitzvah in a traditional minyan in her lifetime. Her granddaughter or great-granddaughter, perhaps, but her daughter, impossible.

Last Saturday, for her Bat-Mitzvah, Rahel’s daughter beautifully and flawlessly layned all of Parashat Mishpatim and the haftarah before at least 100 people at Shira Hadasha, the revolutionary Orthodox shul her mother is a founding member of. Bizarre as it feels in a shul with a mechitza, seeing women layn and get aliyot isn’t all that odd to me since I grew up with it. I don’t think I could have fully appreciated the significance of this moment had I not seen my teacher’s face as she spoke before her daughter gave a d’var Torah. Every parent kvells when their child becomes a B’nai Mitzvah, but there was something special here, the bewildered look of pride and triumph only known to those who know what it’s like to have been laughed at then live to see their dream accomplished. This look was reflected in the faces of many others in attendance who similarly knew and inspired it in those of us who did not.

This amazing simcha was followed by a kiddush worthy of the occasion that featured hot Yerushalmi kugel, peanut butter-chocolate-coconut squares I doubt that I’ll ever be able to fully get over, and a guy who looked just like Larry David only taller.

 

Monday in Self, Soul, and Text a surprise guest-speaker came in to talk about transforming anger. She began the presentation by asking who had ever experienced anger. Every student save one raised their hand. She then started going one-by-one around the room having people name a life circumstance that can cause feelings of anger. After four or five responses, she took a sudden break from this to lead us in some Hebrew chants. After this, she started talking about something else until she noticed people getting antsy and let us take a 10-minute break. Once the break had ended and she resumed talking about our anger, a student—the one who did not raise her hand when the presenter asked who had ever experienced anger—raised her hand and told the presenter how her lecturing, unorganized style, made her angry. Others agreed, and told her how anger has actually been a positive factor in their lives, motivating them to fight wrong. Our presenter calmly responded by saying anger is caused by not understanding others’ value-judgments. Someone else answered that she does not care about the value-judgments of those who traffic women and children. Our presenter responded that it might be difficult but we need to. This angered more people. By the time class was over and we wheedled out of our presenter how she believes in neither punishment nor right and wrong, the class was divided between those who were mad at her for her radical views and unsatisfying answers, and those who were mad at the class for not just letting her speak. Except for me. I left that class feeling neither anger nor frustration, but rather grave disappointment—how was it possible that I was seemingly the only one who just wanted to relish in the wonderful irony of the whole situation?

 

Tuesday night two friends and I made dinner together then watched a performance of Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons at The Jerusalem Theater. No flipped expectations here, it was pure joy.

 

By the time Thursday came, I had never been more prepared for a new month. Our community Shira Hadasha-style morning service was riotous with singing and dancing, and the breakfast afterward featured a staff presentation that, while hysterical if you were there, you can’t really write about and do it justice. Afterwards the morning classes swapped teachers, so we learned slightly differently than how we are used to. It was out of control.

 

Adar makes its entrance easy to rejoice in when it brings us presents like warmer weather. Last weekend was the worst of the year, with rain, hail, heavy wind, and a laughably pathetic amount of snow (last Friday night when conditions were at their worst, my friend from Miami, wearing more insulation than Ernest Shackleton, was shocked when I told him this was still the mildest winter of my life). This week was completely different—while mornings and nights were still chilly, most of the day saw clear blue skies, the kind of sun that makes it feel like your eyeballs will explode if you look up, and warm weather. This can only mean one thing: Passover will be here before you can blink.

 

Quote of the Week: “It’s like in The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Perplexed.” – Rav Elisha

 

Hebrew Word of the Week: הפוך (“hafookh”) – flipped

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Week 4: The Learning Curve

(X-posted to my home blog, Yinzer in Yerushalayim.)

Just after I posted last Friday, it all hit the fan. The entire day post-posting forced it to hit home in a big way for the first time that I really am in a foreign country now. It is also when I fell in love, twice over.

At noon last Friday I had to meet someone at the branch of the Aroma Espresso Bar, like the Israeli Panera Bread, nearest my apartment. The Aroma is right next to a supermarket, and in front of the supermarket was a table where a woman was giving out samples of wine. It sounds like a joke, but that’s when it really hit home that I’m not in Pennsylvania anymore. I would have stared at it in disbelief, but then I remembered that staring in Israel is most definitely not a good idea. I didn’t try any. At Aroma, I got the iced version of their signature drink, called an Aroma. It tasted like chocolate and vanilla and cinnamon and coffee and spices and might just have been one of the best things I’ve ever had. I almost can’t wait until it gets colder now so I can savor the hot version. One sip was all it took for me to fall in love.

 

Then I took the bus to the Shuk on a Friday afternoon. I feel lucky to have made it out alive, but like all things in life, it was a learning experience. Here are some of the valuable lessons I learned Erev Shabbat at the Shuk:

  • I am not in America anymore.
  • I am not on Birthright anymore.
  • Never go to the Shuk without someone who actually speaks Hebrew.
  • If you must go it all by your big spoiled American self, never attempt to buy clothes from someone who doesn’t speak English. Long story short, I wanted two pairs of jeans, didn’t have the cash, and somehow (the details are still scary and hazy in my mind) ended up with a pair of khakis I didn’t want, but at least I have new pants now, right?
  • Different kinds of fruits and vegetables go in different bags (“You’re buying a salad?”).
  • Marzipan is still the greatest bakery in the world. We went to the Shuk on Birthright, and it was completely different: a kitschy foreign marketplace where my friends and I bought shwarma and had a blast indulging in the sights, tastes, and smells, and taking pictures before getting back on our air-conditioned coach bus to tour the next fun attraction in our very own, cute little country. The only thing this time around that resembled that one was Marzipan. On Birthright, our madrikh, or group leader, Alex described it as “the crack cocaine of rugela” and he couldn’t have put it better. But it’s not just their rugela, everything they make, from potato borekas, to Danishes, to pastry puffs, to mini pizzas and everything in-between contains just the perfect amount of chewy and doughy, yet crispy and flaky and sweet and savory with just the right amount of grease to make it one of the more powerful religious experiences to be found in Jerusalem. After one bite I fell in love all over again. Rewarding myself with Marzipan fresh from the oven at the end of my Shuk experience, and getting some extra to bring to my Shabbat meals, made the whole hassle worth it.

 

Friday night, I experienced one of the most beautiful Kabbalat Shabbat services of my life at Shira Hadasha, down the street from me. I knew I was going to like this place before I even stepped through the door: There is a long covered sidewalk leading from the street to the shul, and as I walked down it with my roommate, he told me that every Friday there is a farmer’s market here. This farmer’s market plus the Marzipan branch on the way I never noticed before mean I will never have to go the Shuk again for a long time. That was the beginning of my good Shabbat mood, and the services themselves soon completed it—the singing at Shira Hadasha was so spirited and beautiful, going there felt more like being part of a professional choir than going to shul. The only thing that stopped it from being just the perfectly reinvigorating spiritual bubble bath at the end of a long day and busy week was my slight anxiety that they would kick me out for ruining their angelic chorus of praise once they noticed my nasal whining. But thankfully they let me stay.

 

Later in the week, I put some of the stuff I bought at the Shuk to good use by cooking my first ever real meal for myself. I fried some eggplant in olive oil, then put it, parmesan cheese, tomato, and fresh basil on whole wheat bread then stuck it on our sandwich grill to create a grilled eggplant parmesan sandwich. It was good, and I’m convinced that after some tweaking it will be even better.

 

The other highlight of the week was yesterday’s tour of the archaeology exhibit at the Israel Museum lead by Pardes teacher Rabbi Michael Hattin. That it cost us only 10 shekels felt like stealing. We saw, through the eyes of an expert tour guide, not only the history of Israel but the history of all humanity unfolding with each footstep. There before our eyes were actual artifacts attesting to invention of tools, the creation of written language, the evolution of religion and culture, and the emergence of the Israelite people. In my last semester at Pitt, I took Israel in the Biblical Age, which made seeing certain artifacts, including the actual Tel Dan Stele, the first known extra-Biblical reference to the Davidic Dynasty, and the Priestly Benediction amulets from 600 BCE especially powerful for me almost like seeing a celebrity except that these actually deserve their fame.

 

The museum is right across from the Knesset, and before we went in, Rabbi Hattin told us to keep this location in mind as we toured the museum. All the earliest references to Israel outside the Bible tell of its destruction, and seeing the Knesset, capped by its mammoth Israeli flag, outside the museum tells the whole world reports of our death have been greatly exaggerated. But I think there’s something even deeper here: If I remember correctly from Birthright, the Knesset is also near the Har Herzl Military Cemetery and Yad Vashem. If this is so, then the whole layout to explain the Knesset and the State it governs to the world—The Israel Museum tells why we’re in this land, Yad Vashem tells why we can’t be anywhere else, and Har Herzl tells the price we are willing to pay to stay here (though that’s easy for me, the big spoiled American Jew to say).

 

On this note I’ll mention that I haven’t “forgotten” to mention anything happening in Israel recently. I have too many benefactors for this trip on both sides of the political fence to risk offending anyone with my true views on the subject. Besides, I’m in such a bubble here, I really haven’t been following it as closely as I should be anyway.

 

Now I have to start getting ready for tonight.

 

Hebrew word of the week: שנה טובה (“Shana Tova”) – Good Year, as in “May you have a”

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The one where the family comes to visit

My family’s visiting Israel this week for the very first time.  Not only is it their first time in Israel – it’s also their first time traveling abroad, if you don’t count Caribbean cruises.

I’ve been excited about this week since I first arrived in September, especially the opportunity to show them my “turf” and introduce them to my friends.  I’ve become very comfortable in my lifestyle here in Jerusalem, and I wanted to be able to share that with them beyond just pictures and phone calls.  I especially wanted them to be able to sit in on some of my classes and come to minyan with me, so when planning the itinerary, I made sure to fit those experiences into the schedule.

I also wanted to give my family the full Israel tour experience – that is to say, a lot of the first time experiences that many people experience on a Birthright trip, like going to Masada, visiting the Kotel, Independence Hall, and experiencing Shabbat in Jerusalem.  For me, that has meant switching mentalities from being a full-time student to being a tourist for the week.  It hasn’t always been easy.  Being at Pardes definitely means that I’ve gotten into a regular weekday routine, and having to change that up for constant traveling is exhausting.  I’ve missed my classes and my teachers, seeing my friends throughout the day, and having a simple meal when I get home at night.

BUT – I wouldn’t trade this week for anything.

I’ve gotten to see my brothers float in the Dead Sea and cover themselves with mud… my dad learn more about the depth of Jewish history than he’s ever experienced before… my mom engaging with the same struggles that I encounter on a daily basis, being a progressive egalitarian-minded Jew in Jerusalem.  I was able to study Jewish text (Shmot 4:24-26) together with my dad and my brother Drew for the very first time, hearing their insights on the Tanakh and the commentaries and their voices joining a conversation thousands of years old.  My entire family came to minyan with me one morning, and there wouldn’t have been a minyan if they hadn’t been present.  How beautiful is that?

And Shabbat in Jerusalem, with my family, was an incredible and powerful experience.  We spent Friday rushing around, shopping at the shuk, cleaning and cooking.  That night, we davened at Shira Hadasha, experiencing the beauty of their melodies and the sense of community.  We hosted a Shabbat dinner for family and friends, reveling in the memories of the week gone by, resting up for the week again.  When my brother Drew told me that it was one of the highlights of his week, I beamed.

And now, for your viewing pleasure, more highlights from the week:

Sunrise at the Tayelet

Tel Aviv and the Mediterranean

Jake at Yad Vashem

Dead Sea

Dead Sea Newspaper

B’shalom,

Lauren

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